During my last several weeks in King Salmon, I felt like a bird. Restless, energetic, and somewhat anxious, I wondered if I was experiencing Zugunruhe. This is a phenomenon seen in many migratory birds; it is the urge to migrate exhibited in nighttime restlessness. With each passing day, I became more anxious to start my journey south. Fittingly, I began my migration at night as many birds do, on September 28th. I flew into Fairbanks to meet up with my mate; we would travel as a pair.
The need to head south was readily apparent, as a storm had dumped several feet of snow over Fairbanks and was still hanging over the Alaska Interior. We slowly trod through the snow to Chena Hot Springs. It was the wildest swimming experience I'd ever had; I swam through hot water, my feet brushing against gravel on the floor, surrounded by rocks and spruce, snow falling. The air temperature was in the 30s. Ducks flew over in the twilight, so close I could hear their wing beats. It was magical. Our plan had been to head to Denali National Park, but with the storm we were forced to reroute down the Richardson Highway. We entered into a Winter Wonderland; the snow danced in the wind, and the mountains were all white. We had a Moose cow and calf trot across the road in front of us, a Beaver swim by our campsite as we made dinner one night, and Gray Jays (also known as Camp Robbers) scold us for not sharing our meal. As we neared Tok, Alaska, we saw a small patch of blue sky cut out of the gray. As we rounded a mountain pass, we entered into full blue skies and the snow disappeared.
Chena Hot Springs (Photo from Google Images)
Moose crossing the Richardson Highway.
Winter Wonderland
Sunset over Destruction Bay, Yukon
Portion of the 165 herd of Dall Sheep.
Along the Haines Junction, British Columbia
We had not been prepared to leave Alaska yet, so we took a detour to Haines, a southeast Alaska coastal town. We reached Haines only after driving down mountain passes among some of British Columbia's great peaks. It was a sharp transition to sealevel, and a breathtaking one. Towering, jagged mountains with the ocean is one of my favorite landscapes. Haines brought us sightings of Harbor Seals, seaducks, many, many eagles, and more of the Aurora borealis. I basked in the glory of the Northern Lights, so beautiful that it almost brought tears to my eyes. The sky appeared fluid; the lights changing by the second- undulating and pulsating in brightness. I was mesmerized as it stretched over the mountains and trees. Perhaps the only thing I was truly aware of whilst in this trance, was how incredibly small I was standing underneath the heavens.
Haines, AK
Bald Eagle in Haines, AK.
I actually took this photo on a different night, but still.
After a few days, we said goodbye to Alaska for the season and headed back into British Columbia. We entered the Yukon again briefly, took a dip in Takhini Hot Springs, and afterwards watched the Northern Lights dance again above. We saw Elk and Caribou, two of my favorite Cervid (Deer) species. Soon after I restated (we had discussed the subject while in Alaska) that I would love to see Wood Bison (the Northern, forest-dwelling subspecies of the American Bison), we saw a large bull grazing on the side of the road.... And then another one.... And then several more.... And then a herd of over 20! In total we saw 104 members of what is known as the Norquist Herd. After another delightful dip in Liard Hot Springs, a secluded natural spring surrounded by moss and spruce, even more excitement came when we read about Stone's Sheep on a sign. This is a little-known subspecies of the Dall Sheep with a tiny range between southern Yukon and northern British Columbia. I immediately felt the need to see this animal that moments before I had not known existed. Its beauty and the possibility of seeing an animal very few others had seen fueled me. We did not have to wait long. As we crested a hill along Stone Mountain Provincial Park, a herd of Stone's Sheep were licking salt off of the road. They looked completely different from Dall Sheep. Rather than all white, they had black tails, gray backs, and half dark brown and white legs. We were able to watch the animals at our leisure, and it was a privilege to do so.
Wood Bison bull
Liard Hot Springs (Photo from Google Images).
Caribou
After some awesome mammal experiences, it was time for some birding. We were unable to catch up with many of the migrants, but after camping at Swan Lake Provincial Park in Alberta, we woke up to the honking of Canada Geese flying over. We exited the Mountain Turtle to find Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintails, Northern Harriers, and a Common Snipe. The quacking of waterfowl and chattering of chickadees and redpolls replaced the silence felt farther north.
Soon we found ourselves in Jasper and Banff National Parks again. Here we were unfortunately reminded of the extreme disconnect most of society has with nature as two tourists approached a giant bull Elk. Not only is it very dangerous to approach a large wild animal, it is also very disrespectful. Even if wildlife are not visibly stressed by our presence, their heart rates and stress hormone levels are probably increased. Despite that frustrating situation, we saw many Elk, deer (White-tailed and Mule), Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goats, a Moose at Moose Pond, and a Black Bear, all while traveling in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies.
Jasper National Park, Alberta
Bighorn Sheep ram in foreground and ewe in background.
Elk bull running.
After leaving the parks, the next day we found ourselves in the middle of the mass Snow Goose migration in Saskatchewan. These birds breed in the Arctic, then head south to both coasts of the US, as well as parts of central US and Mexico. Their population is booming, because they thrive in agricultural areas like Saskatchewan. We stopped the car. I stood, looking up in awe, at the thousands of birds flying over me. They called loudly as they flew. As I looked around, every pond in the fields around us seemed to contain mixed flocks of Snow Geese, Greater White-fronted Geese, Tundra Swans, and ducks. We saw many more Snow Geese flocks, in such great numbers they blanketed the ground like snow, as well as a field full of Sandhill Cranes, and a large flock of Red-winged Blackbirds settling into a hay field to roost for the night.
Snow Geese
Many, many more Snow Geese.
Sandhill Cranes
Red-winged Blackbirds.
After a long trip, we were happy to enter Montana on October 15th. Soon we saw Pronghorn, which I always watch in admiration. They are the fastest land animal in the Western Hemisphere. The predator that fueled their evolution of speed, the American Cheetah, no longer exists. The only animal that can outrun them today, in fact, is the Cheetah. They are the sole member of their family, and look more like African fauna. Back in the land of Pronghorn, raptors, and blue skies, I found myself looking into the eyes of a large, new life bird, the Ferruginous Hawk. Its bill was eagle-like, and I was excited to observe this species for the first time. We explored the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, and watched a herd of several hundred Elk court. I had never heard Elk bulls bugel, but on this night I finally had the privilege to. The sound is as wild and beautiful as the call of the loon and the howl of the wolf. I am still longing to hear the latter. These are some of nature's greatest concerts, and the quintessence of wilderness.
We are now home, and I am left to reflect on the amazing experiences this year has brought. I am incredibly blessed to be able to explore these places and see these species. I also have a wonderful partner to go on adventures with. Below, you will find a list of all of the species we saw on our trip, when and where we first sighted them, and how many (often approximately) we saw. Although our trip south has ended, life is a constant adventure, and we can still find intimate moments with nature every day. We have only to look around us.
-Jess
