The Drive North

                After spending fall and winter working a stressful job in Texas, recalling memories of my previous Alaskan summer, it was time for an adventure.  Beginning spring in Montana had been a time of rejuvenation for me; exactly what the season should be.  With the Mountain Bluebirds investigating nest boxes, pairs of ducks swimming in roadside streams side-by-side, and Western Meadowlarks singing across fields and atop fence posts, I knew it was time to make the longer leg of my own migration up to Alaska. 

We started our drive up north on March 31^st from Colstrip, Montana, through the dry, golden plains filled with pheasants, Pronghorn, and other wildlife, alongside the Crazy Mountains, towards Kalispell and Whitefish.  We crossed the US-Canada border at Eureka, MT and Roosville, British Columbia on April 2^nd, full of excitement and a little anxiety at the almost certain inspection of Steve’s 1 ton Chevy converted military expedition truck.  After 15 minutes of sitting in the border patrol office, the only contingency to enter Canada was to walk our eggs back into the US (to help prevent the spread of Avian Flu), where a fellow American gladly took them home. 

Within the first half hour of entering Canada, we saw hundreds of Elk and Mule Deer grazing, two Wild Turkey toms displaying for a group of females- their iridescent, striped, bronze retrices (tail feathers) erect, and 3 Bald Eagles and 10 Common Ravens feasting on a deer carcass, all with the backdrop of giant, jagged mountains.  This was definitely how I had imagined ‘The Great White North’. 

The next days and weeks were filled with more wildlife and mountains.  We traveled through Kootenay National Park, taking a relaxing dip in the hot springs there, as well as through Banff and Jasper National Parks.  Mountains towered over us on both sides of the road, each turn offering a different visual perspective, while simultaneously bringing into perspective my small size in comparison to the vast landscape surrounding me.  I saw my first glacier- mysterious, powerful, and blue.  Common Goldeneye drakes fought over a female at Premier Lake, splashing and biting each other.  Varied Thrushes sang their low, echoing one note songs every morning in the dense forest, easily heard but not seen.  Herds of Bighorn Sheep walked the rocky ledges along the side of the road.  White-tailed Deer bounded between rock faces and forest.  We saw three moose at a great distance, and knew we would see more.  A Common Raven examined the animal mural on our vehicle, inquisitively tilting his head and walking along the side like a human at an art exhibit.  Several Clark’s Nutcrackers flew back and forth across the Lake Louise parking lot in Banff; I pondered their amazing memory and wondered if they had cached any seeds nearby. 

Banff National Park

Young Bighorn Sheep

Common Raven examining our vehicle.

Clark's Nutcracker

Glacier in Jasper National Park

Following Smithers, BC, we began driving the Stewart-Cassiar Highway.  This is where our adventure took an unexpected turn; one of our vehicles began smoking and we had to be towed back into Smithers.  The next several days were an attempt to unravel the mystery, the answer to which was likely a faulty PVC valve.  From a positive perspective, this gave us an opportunity to experience an interesting cultural difference between Canada and the US: bowling is played with 5 rather than 10 pins, and small, 2 lb (?) balls.  We also had delicious 'Boston Pizza' and Cadbury Crème Egg Milkshakes at McDonald’s, which are unavailable in the US.  Back on track, we ventured on, through Stewart BC and briefly into Hyder, Alaska! 

It felt wonderful to step back into the US again, and to set foot in Alaska, the land I fell in love with for its wilderness, mystery, and opportunities for adventure.  I can feel its essence on the cold air that fills my lungs, making my heart pound faster.  We are greeted by a Bald Eagle (how fitting!), along with a few Harbor Seals, which silently and cautiously watch us with their dark eyes and heads only slightly above water.  The remainder of the day is spent driving a snowmobile trail up into the mountains a little ways, and then fighting off (shockingly) swarms of mosquitoes while cooking dinner. 

Bald Eagle in Hyder.

Harbor Seal, picture taken at the Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward, AK.

Before we left to drive the next leg of our journey to Whitehorse, Yukon, I was able to bird in our campground, where a Beaver, unhappy about my presence, defensively slapped his tail against the water, while simultaneously two Belted Kingfisher males chased one another around the same pond, each trying to claim it for his own.  I saw two new life species (a species seen in the wild for the first time by me) that morning back in Stewart.  Let me first say that these are special moments, filled with excitement and a little disbelief over laying eyes upon a creature for the first time.  Chestnut-backed Chickadees, with a bold appearance to match their bold personalities, appeared to tumble from branch to branch, foraging on pine nuts.  They are charming little birds.  A short walk away, loud squawks came from an unseen and unfamiliar Corvid.  “Could it be?  Finally?”  I had wanted to see a Steller’s Jay for a very long time.  The crested black head and brilliant blue body of a large bird bursting from the trees confirmed.  The next 20 minutes were spent delightedly observing a group of 10 or so jays foraging and calling to one another. 

Steller's Jays

That eighth day of our journey was a long one, but not without exciting moments.  Not far from Stewart, two moose waded in a river and a third stood on shore.  We were able to observe them from a pull-off nearby.  I eagerly watched the largest member of Cervidae (the deer family), contemplating their large hooves, adapted for walking through snow and bogs, and large snouts, containing nostrils that close underwater due to the pressure differential, preventing water from entering while feeding.  Later on, another life species, the Ruffed Grouse, crossed the road in front of us just after we passed over the Stikine River.  It was easy to lose sight of once off the road because of its remarkable camouflage.  Males of this species make a drumming sound by moving their wings forward and back, creating a vacuum. 

Can you spot the Ruffed Grouse?

Still attempting to resolve the car difficulty, we drove well into the night in an attempt to reach Whitehorse as quickly as possible.  Soon after darkness fell, bright columns of green and yellow appeared in the sky- the Northern Lights, or Aurora borealis!  I was filled with awe as I watched the colors spread across the sky in constant flux.  Changing within seconds and strengthening over the course of several hours, the lights were truly sublime, and more incredible than I could have ever imagined.  Seeing something so amazing, that I had longed to see my whole life, was spiritual and humbling.  Words fail to describe the experience beyond that. 

I didn't take a picture myself, but here is one I found on Google from the same area.

We reached Whitehorse the next day, ran a few errands, and relaxed in Takhini Hot Springs.  A good soak was needed after banging my head on the refrigerator, excitedly scrambling to the front of the truck to see caribou crossing the road that morning.  A remarkable circumpolar (found around the Earth in the vicinity of the North Pole) species, Caribou (also known as Reindeer when semi-domesticated), specialize on eating lichens, have hollow outer hairs which hold air and help warm the animal, have large hooves for moving over tundra and snow, and are migratory.  It is always a pleasure to see this species in the wild, as their populations are currently declining. 

The next day we had the misfortune of shearing some lugnuts off our left back tire.  However, the situation was not completely hapless, as we were not far from Whitehorse, and were able to pull off the road and quickly find parts.  We camped out near Destruction Bay on the ALCAN (Alaska-Canadian Highway), named for a storm that nearly destroyed a town established for building the highway.  The next morning we woke up excited to enter Alaska soon, and listened to John Denver’s “Alaska and Me” multiple times.  I smiled as I could relate to the song, being so interested in the state as a child that I wrote a report on it in elementary school. 

We entered Alaska around noon, but not without friendly hassling regarding our strange vehicle.  Rather than poultry, this time we had to surrender our Clementinas, to prevent possible transmission of non-native insects.  We passed by Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge and were continuously surrounded by beautiful scenery.  Our first stop was Jennifer’s Thai, a food bus in Tok, AK.  As we waited outside, I realized I was finally acclimating to decreased temperatures, as ~45°F felt comfortable.  Common Redpolls sang their buzzy songs in the trees all around.  We drove through Bear Valley and saw the mighty peaks of Wrangell- St. Elias National Park and Preserve.  A moose crossed the road in front of us and was quickly lost in dense pines.  A colorful Spruce Grouse male walked the opposite side of the road, and curiously approached the truck instead of flying away when we doubled back, allowing for great pictures.  We camped out that night at a different Lake Louise near Glennallen, AK.  

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

Common Redpoll

Spruce Grouse

The next day we set off for Anchorage.  We were stopped at a pull-off to examine maps and check the status of our vehicles that morning, when a flash of red, white, and black caught my eye.  The elongated, curved mandibles crossing over one another, it was recognizable immediately as a White-winged Crossbill!  Another exciting life species!  Crossbills are specialists with bills adapted for extracting and consuming conifer seeds; they are only found in coniferous forests.  We made a brief stop in Wasilla, where we bought a used Zodiac boat!  We made it into bustling Anchorage around 3pm.  It is strange traveling through a large city where skyscrapers sit next to the ocean, and mountains form more of the backdrop.  We dined on Moose’s Tooth Pizza, which is delicious, and camped out at beautiful Eklutna Lake.

White-winged Crossbill female

It is a welcome surprise to wake up to large mountains and other unseen scenery when you arrive at a campground at night.  The ice on the lake was melting, and so we heard the strange, echoing sounds of cracking ice on a water body.  We also birded for a bit, finding ravens, redpolls, chickadees, a Downy Woodpecker, and a Red-breasted Nuthatch.  We headed for Seward on the Kenai Peninsula soon after. 

We drove along Turnagain Arm, looking out towards Cook Inlet.  Sheer rock faces towered above us to the left, angry waves rolled and crashed against rocks in the inlet to our right, and more mountains stood boldly on the other side of the inlet.  I scanned the mountains above us, knowing that Dall Sheep are commonly seen here.  With the lack of snowfall the west has experienced, a white figure moving amongst the rocks was easy to see.  I watched the graceful creature climb amongst rocks with ease through my binoculars and camera.  Alaska is the only US state Dall Sheep can be found in; it was a special moment to see this new life mammal that thrives in cold, steep, rocky areas.  

            We drove through rain, then heavy snow, then rain again, reaching Seward several hours later.  Seward is a delightful little seaside town, sleepy when not in tourism season.  At the far end of town, gulls floated in the water, awaiting a fishing ship perhaps.  Upon closer examination, I noticed Common Murres and a Pigeon Guillemot in the mix.  The other FWS seasonal employees I worked with last year had studied a Common Murre breeding colony at Puale Bay, which was heavily impacted by the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill.  It was nice to see this species again.  

Common Murres in a sea of gulls.

Pigeon Guillemot at the Alaska SeaLife Center.

          We drove to another beach access road further down.  I saw what I thought was a log, but as I walked closer, I noticed it had limbs and was turning in the surf.  I had never seen a Sea Otter so close, so I hadn't realized how big they are!  We watched it float and feed on clams, dive, and repeat.  It was wonderful to watch this animal so closely, and I imagined it swimming through tall kelp forests, grabbing sea urchins for meals.  As I will discuss in a later blog, this is an endangered species, so it is encouraging and a privilege to see in the wild.  Nearby, a beautiful raft of Harlequin Ducks, males in full breeding plumage, along with a few Barrow's Goldeneyes floated in the waves.  Our first evening in Seward was filled non-stop with wildlife!  We walked along the beach more.  Suddenly a large, slender head and neck popped out of the water, curiously watching us.  Three more joined, dove, and popped up again nearby.  They were Steller Sea Lions, the largest sea lion species, and also one that is classified as "Near threatened" by the IUCN (watch for same later blog).  Their curiosity and playfulness (even after we were in our truck driving away they followed us) reminded me of their Galapagos cousins that I had swam with in a very different ecosystem.  Sea Lions are delightful animals to interact with!  

Sea Otter with clam.

Duck Raft, mostly Harlequins but with Barrow's Goldeneye pair at top right.

Harlequin Duck drake, picture taken at the Alaska SeaLife Center.

Steller Sea Lions

         The next day we visited the Alaska SeaLife Center and briefly hiked into Kenai Fjords National Park to see Exit Glacier.  The Alaska SeaLife Center is a wonderful rehabilitation, education, and conservation organization.  I had wanted to visit this place in part because the wildlife refuge I worked for last summer partners with them.  We watched a pair of King Eiders court, a large Steller Sea Lion male bellow, and saw numerous other marine creatures.  Exit Glacier was beautiful, and it was remarkable how much the glacier had receded over past century (there were markers showing).  We spent the remainder of the evening walking on the beach, watching the sun set over the mountains and water, looking for sea shells and sea creatures. Seward is a nice place.  

King Eider Drake

Courting King Eider pair.

Tufted Puffin

Horned Puffin

Us at Exit Glacier.

Sunset in Seward, AK.

          The next day we traveled to Kenai and Soldotna, passing through Kenai National Wildlife Refuge along the way.  We didn't see much wildlife besides a few waterfowl, but we were able to do errands, find a nice campground, and drive on the beach the next morning.  Our last stop on the Kenai Peninsula before heading back to Anchorage was Homer.  It was dismal, rainy weather when we arrived, but we made the best of it.  We stopped at a wetland overlook, where we saw some Mallards and more White-winged Crossbills.  As we began driving back to the main road, we saw two moose, one on each side of the road, watching us!  We slowly drove by them and were able to quietly observe and take pictures.  We used the remainder of the evening to visit the Salty Dawg Saloon (a famous little bar with a big personality on the Homer Spit) and find some fish and chips to satisfy a grease and salt craving.  We camped out at Anchor Point, right on the beach.  

         

          Our second day in Seward was spent partially at the Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center, operated in part by Alaska Maritime Wildlife Refuge, which has impressive natural history and cultural exhibits and was a nice relief from the cold wind and rain.  We walked down to an estuary and Bishop's Beach, where among other birds I saw a Eurasian Wigeon for the first time!  We also hiked the Diamond Creek Trail, where we saw another Moose on the way in, and over 20 Sea Otters when we reached the beach.  With large rock faces and civilization not visible from the bottom of the trail, the beach looked like wilderness.  It was beautiful.  

End of Diamond Creek Trail, Homer, AK

          It was a very low tide the next morning, so before we headed back to Anchorage the next day we went 'tidepooling' and found sea stars, anemones, crabs, and a small amphipod (shrimp-like crustacean).  Northwestern Crows and Bald Eagles were tidepooling as well, although for a very different purpose.  We camped out near Portage Glacier in Chugach National Forest that night.  The weather was poor but it was a very beautiful place.  I saw the glacier and lake but do not have any pictures because it was so rainy and windy.  On our way along Turnagain Arm again we saw more Dall Sheep, and a Beluga Whale for an instant.  This trip had offered amazing scenery and wildlife.  

Anchor Point, AK

Sea star found while tidepooling.

          I will skip over the rest of our trip, as the remainder was spent running around Anchorage.  Below I have compiled tables of the mammal and bird species we saw on our trip- 17 mammals and 51 birds.  Starting March 31st from Colstrip and ending April 21st, when we flew to King Salmon from Anchorage, this has been the longest continuous trip I have been on.  I had wanted to see more of Canada beyond the Niagara Falls area I had been to before, and the idea of driving to Alaska had been a dream of both Steve's and mine.  It has been an adventure, with both triumphant and frustrating moments, but overall fantastic!  To be in such beautiful surroundings, experiencing new ecosystems and species, and all with good company lifts the heart and soul.  

Mammals
Common Name	Scientific Name
White-tailed Deer	Odocoileus virginianus
Mule Deer	Odocoileus hermionus
Elk	Cervus canadensis
Moose	Alces alces
Caribou	Rangifer tarandus
Pronghorn	Antilocapra americana
Bighorn Sheep	Ovis canadensis
Dall Sheep	Ovis dalli
Black-tailed Prairie Dog	Cynomys ludovicianus
American Red Squirrel	Tamiasciurus hudsonicus
Coyote	Canis latrans
Red Fox	Vulpes vulpes
American [Pine] Marten	Martes Americana
Sea Otter	Enhydra lutris
Steller Sea Lion	Eumetopias jubatus
Harbor Seal	Phoca vitulina
Beluga Whale	Delphinapterus leucas

Birds
Common Name	Scientific Name
Common Loon	Gavia immer
Trumpeter Swan	Cygnus buccinator
Tundra Swan	Cygnus columbianus
Canada Goose (Dusky)	Branta canadensis
Greater White-fronted Goose	Anser albifrons
Mallard	Anas platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail	Anas acuta
American Wigeon	Anas americana
Eurasian Wigeon	Anas penelope
Green-winged Teal	Anas crecca
Greater Scaup	Aythya marila
Harlequin Duck	Histrionicus histrionicus
White-winged Scoter	Melanitta fusca
Barrow’s Goldeneye	Bucephala islandica
Bufflehead	Bucephala albeola
Common Merganser	Mergus merganser
Red-breasted Merganser	Mergus serrator
Red-tailed Hawk	Buteo jamaicensis
Bald Eagle	Haliaeetus leucocephalus
Gyrfalcon	Falco rusticolus
Ring-necked Pheasant	Phasianus colchicus
Spruce Grouse	Falcipennis canadensis
Ruffed Grouse	Bonasa umbellus
Wild Turkey	Meleagris gallopavo
Sandhill Crane	Grus canadensis
Mew Gull	Larus canus
Herring Gull	Larus argentatus
Glacous-winged Gull	Larus hyperboreus
Common Murre	Uria aalge
Pigeon Guillemot	Cepphus columba
Short-eared Owl	Asio flammeus
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon
Downy Woodpecker	Picoides pubescens
Steller’s Jay	Cyanocitta stelleri
Gray Jay	Perisoreus canadensis
Clark’s Nutcracker	Nucifraga columbiana
Black-billed Magpie	Pica hudsonia
Common Raven	Corvus corax
Northwestern Crow	Corvus caurinus
Black-capped Chickadee	Poecile atricapilla
Chestnut-backed Chickadee	Poecile rufescens
Red-breasted Nuthatch	Sitta canadensis
Mountain Bluebird	Sialis currucoides
Varied Thrush	Ixoreus naevius
American Robin	Turdus migratorius
Song Sparrow	Melospiza melodia
Dark-eyed Junco	Junco hyemalis
Snow Bunting	Plectrophenax nivalis
White-winged Crossbill	Loxia leucoptera
Common Redpoll	Carduelis flammea
Hoary Redpoll*	Carduelis hornemanni*